Crossing the Equator (une entrée sans photo)

Le trajet entre Kabale et Fort Portal est, sur notre carte, des plus séduisants : montagnes cultivées en terrasse autour de Kabale, puis le célèbre Queen Elizabeth National Park peuplé des « Big Five », passage… Continue reading

Place of Many Little Birds

Entering Uganda, the bus from Kisoro to Kabale winds its way up through dazzling hills, impressively terraced for agriculture from bottom to top. As night falls, the hills disappear into darkness and mist,… Continue reading

Seven Days in Gisenyi

We spent seven days in Gisenyi, a small town in Rwanda on the shores of Lake Kivu. Not because it is an amazing destination, but because we are stuck there three times, waiting.… Continue reading

Make a Run for the Church

We search for accommodation in Kigali, visiting a few local guesthouses. There are three on the corner where we have stopped at an internet café. The first costs Rfr7,000 for a self-contained double… Continue reading

Rwanda: Land of a Thousand Hills

The small map of Kigali in our Lonely Planet guidebook is incomprehensible, a swirl of spiraling roads. Once we arrive in Rwanda, we understand why. The tiny country of Rwanda seems to have… Continue reading

Ode au Kilimandjaro

Si j’avais des dons de poète je composerais une ode au Kilimandjaro. Je commencerais par les nuages. Cette étendue de nuages, vaste, intense et compacte, qui nous empêchait de voir toute montagne lorsque… Continue reading



Hanging in Dar

After one month of travelling – through 4 countries and 14 stops – we are happy to arrive at my old friend Megan’s place in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. We spend seven nights… Continue reading