Once Upon a Time in Gondar

Our last stop in Ethiopia is Gondar, a fairy tale city. Located strategically on a hilltop, it holds a royal enclosure of the fortresses, castles, banquet and concert halls, baths, and stables of… Continue reading

Addis Admin

Nos journées à Addis sont rythmées par les heures d’ouverture et de fermeture des ambassades. Renseignements, dépôts de dossier, contre-renseignements, prises de tête, retraits de visa, soulagement: nous vivons Addis comme l’étape bureaucratique… Continue reading

Mobile Home Office

To my co-authors: I’m working on it.

Market Day in Lalibela

Lalibela: Built by Angels

Gebre Mesqel Lalibela had a dream. He was taken to heaven and saw Jerusalem in a vision, and ordered by God to build a “New Jerusalem” on earth. When he became King of… Continue reading

Following the Blue Nile

Toward the end of the day, our boat floats towards the outflow of Lake Tana: the source of the Blue Nile River. Hippos peer up out of the water at us, as we… Continue reading

The Hidden Treasures of Lake Tana

Hidden among the shores and islands of Lake Tana in northern Ethiopia are over 20 monasteries, many of which date from the 14th century. Departing by boat from the pleasant city of Bahir… Continue reading

Bizarre Harar

Our first stop in Ethiopia is Harar: “Hrrrrrr” (as we hear it called, with a strong roll on the r’s). The old Jugol walled city, the heart of Ethiopia’s Muslim community, with over… Continue reading